Abel Tasman National Park: Friday, 7/31

Any nature junkie needs to make it to New Zealand because the amount of seemingly untouched, beautiful land here is insane. Breathtaking.

Today almost all of us on the Topdeck trip decided to go kayaking and hiking in Abel Tasman National Park. The day started off pretty cold when we woke up and took a bus to the park, but by the time we hopped in our 2-person kayaks it was gorgeous and sunny. We kayaked around to see a famous split rock and some caves that we could paddle through. 

After getting back to shore, we breaked for lunch and had some fun on a jungle gym and zip line before taking a boat to the location where we would hike. While on the boat we saw a handful of seals basking on a few rocks, and that was really exciting! There were baby seal pups playing in a little cove as well, gaining their confidence before taking the plunge into the exposed water. 

Spot the seal?

We then hiked around for about 2 hours along beaches and up mountains to get better views of the water and scenery. Overall it was an amazing day and the pictures I have on my phone don't do NZ nature justice. You'll have to come to New Zealand to see it for yourself!

Cook Straight and Nelson: Thursday, 7/30

Today is Thursday? I'm completely losing sense of time here!

Today we woke up early to board a massive boat that is part of the Intercoastaler fleet in order to cross from the North Island to the South Island. And when I say the boat is massive, I mean it. It's as big as a cruise ship, and our large Topdeck bus (along with other large cargo trucks) drove onto the boat to be transported as well. Our tour group had our own lounge on the ship, which was pretty nice as it gave us some privacy to sleep and play card games. One important thing to note is that the Cook Straight is well known as one of the roughest stretches of water in the entire world. The first hour of the journey, when we were in the Wellington harbor, was the rockiest boat journey I've ever been on. There were 3 km high waves and the boat lurched for a good 45 minutes, causing anyone who tends to get seasick to freak out. Luckily my stomach is strong from all of the rollercoasters I love so much, so I could handle the waves, but it was an interesting experience to feel the rocking like that on such a large boat! The next 2 hours were pretty smooth and scenic though, and we got a special tour of the boat's Bridge (or command center), which was a nice addition. The views from the boat made me super excited for the South Island!!

The South Island is larger than the North in terms of land size, but the population is much smaller. To put it in perspective, Auckland (the northern city that I flew into) has more people than the entire South Island combined. The land is full of mountains and beautiful hills, trees, parks, rivers, and pretty much anything you could wish for. 

Right now we're in Nelson, where we stopped at a local vineyard called Forrest Winery. We were able to taste 5 different wines, and I bought a bottle of their award-winning Reisling to bring back and share with Mom and Dad at home! 

After settling into the hotel, we went to the beach a block away to watch the sunset. There was a crazy guy who decided to go swimming in the freezing winter water, but other than that silliness, the sun was gorgeous as it set behind the mountains. Tomorrow we're headed to Abel Tasman National Park for a day full of kayaking, hiking, and hopefully spotting some seal puppies!! Can't wait!

Windy Wellington: Wednesday, 7/29

After waking up super early at the lodge, we made our 5 hour trek in the bus to Wellington, the capital of New Zealand! Once we arrived, Lana and Reece drove us around in the bus for a quick tour of the city's highlights before checking into the hotel. After that we had a free day, so me and Jen made our way to Te Papa, a free six-story museum full of exhibits on culture, animals, war, and art of NZ. It was a beautiful museum, but after we reached floor 4 we got a little stir crazy and couldn't absorb much more information. We still ended up making it through the entire museum!

After visiting Te Papa we got sweet treats at a cafe and walked to Cuba Street for some shopping. There were a bunch of cute shops that we stopped in, and we got some souvenirs and gifts.

We spent the rest of the evening getting drinks and dinner at a few highly recommended local places, and now we're back at the hotel for an early bed time (we have another 6am wake up tomorrow). Overall, Wellington has DEFINITELY been my favorite place on the North Island so far. The city has a lot of small businesses and an eclectic, quirky vibe, which I love. It was fun going in each shop and restaurant and seeing what makes the place unique.

Tomorrow we make our way to the South Island via the Cook Straight, which includes a 3 hour ferry ride. In case you were wondering about the blog post title, Wellington is nicknamed "Windy Wellington" because all of the wind hitting New Zealand comes through the city and the Cook Straight. I can attest that my hair was blowing in my face almost the whole time- it certainly is very windy. I'm excited for the next adventure, and today was amazing!

Tongariro NP Day 2: Tuesday, 7/28

After breakfast almost everyone from our Topdeck group went on a 2 hour hike to see Taraneki Falls. It was a bit cold since we're up in higher elevation, but it was beautiful! I learned from Reece that when a volcano erupts, it always lets off a certain amount of water, forming mini channels. These channels then fill anytime it rains or snow melts down the volcano, turning into little streams. 

Taraneki Falls itself was also beautiful, and if it was warmer than we could've walked down, around, and behind the water. I really enjoyed the hike!

As soon as we got back to the Skotel we had some coffee and the sun began peeking through the clouds, which was also great to see. Then another group of us hiked 3 hours to see Silica Rapids. This hike was a bit more eventful as it started snowing when we got higher in elevation! Some of the Aussies who hardly ever see snow were ecstatic at the flurries and began to sing Christmas songs, which made me laugh and was fun for everyone.

We passed some orange red rapids on the hike up, which it turns out is caused by the iron found in volcanic lava!

I'll probably just relax in the lodge for the rest of the day! Tomorrow we head to Wellington, NZ's capitol city!

Rugby and Tongariro NP Day 1: Monday, 7/27

This morning we were welcomed into the New Zealand Sports Academy, where star athletes are trained to become future professional rugby and netball players. We learned rugby basics and had a ton of fun running around in the slightly muddy conditions. It was a great way to get to know each other further, and it's cool to think that some of the men we met may become All Blacks in just a few years!

After the rugby games we stopped a few places along our way to Tongariro National Park. The first of which was Waiotapu, where we saw the largest gurgles of geothermal activity yet in Rotorua. The pictures don't do it justice (I can show videos later), but imagine a gurgling sulfur/mud/water lake with water ranging from 60-80 degrees Celsius and steam reaching at least 100 degrees Celsius. And here's an attempt at a picture:

Next we took a pit stop at Huka Falls, a beautiful rushing river with a massive waterfall pummeling at ridiculous speed. I told Jen that I feel a little spoiled since I grew up visiting Niagara Falls - which has no comparison in size or power - but Huka Falls was a sight for sore eyes on this rainy day as well!

Finally, we passed Lake Taupo right before driving up to Tongariro. Lake Taupo was formed by volcanic eruption greater in strength than any nuclear weapon more than 26,000 years ago. It is 616 square kilometers, holding the title of New Zealand's largest lake! Pretty cool. After gawking a bit at Lake Taupo, we made our way to the series of active volcanoes found in Tongariro National Park, where we will call home for the next 2 nights. And when I say these volcanoes are active, I mean they could still erupt. Just 2 years ago, one of them erupted, letting off ash and rock (but no lava). Our hotel is built on the side of a volcano and is called the Skotel (ski hotel), but it's more akin to a lodge. We settled in and had a nice dinner together, and now me and Jen are getting ready for an early bedtime to prepare for a hiking day tomorrow. 

Xoxo

Rotorua and HOBBITON!: Sunday, 7/26

After breakfast at the Maori meeting house (or marae), we drove to Rotorua, where we had some down time in the morning. Northern New Zealand is full of geothermal activity, including volcanoes and steam vents. A few of us on the Topdeck tour took a walking trail around some of these vents with dense vegetation. Although it was a rainy day, we made the best of it and didn't want to stay inside during the precious time we have here. 

Then we walked around town a bit to look at souvenirs and grab lunch before hopping on the bus to go to Hobbiton!! This was really exciting as it's the only intact movie set for the LOTR movies and is a huge part of the NZ tourist industry. Even though I'm not a huge LOTR enthusiast, I appreciated all of the effort put into making every detail of the set perfect. The tour ended with a stop in the Green Dragon pub with a "free" beer (included in the hefty admission price), after which we got back on the bus to head back to our hotel before a group dinner in town. Another great day to add to the books! Still so grateful to be here!

Topdeck tour begins: Saturday: 7/25

After a bit of a struggle to find little Jennifer at midnight last night (wandering the streets of Auckland) without phone plans, we woke up this morning and checked out of our hotel before walking around the city and getting some breakfast. I learned that there is no drip coffee in New Zealand... They exclusively drink espresso in its various forms. So I think a long black will be my drink of choice on this trip, which is basically a shot of espresso served with hot water to pour in. 

Me and Jen walked around the harbor and caught up on the past five weeks of each other's lives before meeting up with our Topdeck tour bus! Our guide, Lana, is from the South Island of New Zealand and I can already tell I'll like her sense of humor and laid back personality. There are 16 of us on the trip including me, Jen, 1 other American, 1 Canadian, 1 Spaniard, 1 Frenchman, 1 Malaysian, 1 Scandinavian, 1 Irish woman, and the rest coming from various parts of Australia. 

We drove about 2.5 hours out of Auckland to Rotorua and spent the rest of our day and evening with a thriving Maori tribe. It was truly a once in a lifetime opportunity to be welcomed into their sacred meeting house, served a traditional Maori dinner, and given the opportunity to see their cultural dances and songs used to pass stories down through generations. They emphasized that this is an honor for both parties: they don't share their space with anyone except family (which they now considered us to be), but they are thankful to be able to bring new energy and people to appreciate their traditions. As we got ready for bed (we all had a big slumber party in the ancient meeting house), one of the tribe leaders told us stories about the relationship their people have with the Kiwis and the struggles they endure to keep their culture and land alive and authentic Maori. Today was a wonderful way to start our New Zealand adventures, rich in history and tradition and bringing the 16 of us together in friendship right off the bat.

The wifi on the Topdeck bus is not the strongest, so I apologize if blog posts and communication of any sort are few and far between. I'll do my best! Love you all. Xoxo

Solo day in Auckland: Friday, 7/24

I fell asleep around 4pm yesterday and didn't wake up until 4am this morning, but luckily today I feel completely refreshed and excited to be here! And since I didn't even take the time to look out my window before crashing, look what I saw this morning:

Oh hey, Deloitte! Towering over the surrounding buildings. Nice to see you.

After watching tv until an acceptable breakfast hour, I walked to Shaky Isles- a cute cafe a block away from the hotel. Everyone has been so friendly here, and I got the cashier's recommendation plus a big cup of coffee, no surprise. The poached eggs were great and made me think of Mama because they're one of her favorites :)

Since it was an overcast day, I decided to wander to the New Zealand Maritime Museum for a tour and harbor sail. I got there reasonably early in the day and ended up on a private tour with a fantastic older gentleman volunteer named Graham. I have nothing but positive things to say about him and the museum. With exhibits ranging from early NZ settlement to immigration to whaling to yachting to fishing and beyond, the tour took over two hours and I could've been in there reading information for another three hours. I was so happy that I ended up deciding to go there- all of the history and importance of boating to NZ in general gave me a great perspective for the next few weeks. Graham also gave me advice about things to see and buy throughout the rest of the country, and we had a great time meandering through the museum and laughing at all of the school groups running around. He introduced me to the phrase "Take pictures, leave footprints", which I naturally fell in love with because I live for good quotes and mantras.

Next I hopped on the Jane Gifford for a harbor tour with a few other tourists, and we went to the Auckland Harbour Bridge and back! It was fun, and I got to help hoist a sail so I felt more like a sailor than I ever have in my life. I also talked to a few crew members who instantly picked out that I was American and offered more advice about their favorite places in NZ. 

In the afternoon I visited Auckland's Art Museum because it was free, so why not? I can't say there was anything particularly unique about it, but it was a pleasant way to spend my late afternoon regardless.

That wraps up my day- Jen gets in late tonight and I'm SO EXCITED to hug my little again! We meet up with our Topdeck group tomorrow around noon as well, where the adventure continues!

Arrival in Auckland: Thursday, 7/23

Traveling for over 27 hours straight, especially alone, is a solid form of torture. But I'm here, safe, and so thankful to be able to go on this trip and experience NZ!! I took a public bus from the airport to my hotel, and so far Auckland seems very similar to Pittsburgh and other U.S. cities with familiar store fronts and bustling pedestrians. I'm going to catch up on sleep for the rest of the day, and Jen comes tomorrow (!), so for now, enjoy a picture of my swollen ankles.

Pre-departure: Monday, 7/20

Hello, friends! This is where I'll (try to) update you on my travels as I leave tomorrow to join little Jennifer on the other side of the world. Jen is currently finishing her month-long study abroad trip in Australia (click here to read Jenny's blog). We'll be meeting slightly east in the glorious islands of New Zealand to begin Topdeck's Kiwi Encounter tour from Auckland to Christchurch. You can see the group's itinerary below if you're interested in a preview. Next time I post, I'll have been in airports for over 26 hours - wish me luck!!

Day 1 | Auckland to Rotorua | Maori legends and mythology have been passed down orally for thousands of years. You have one night in this sacred meeting house, so pay attention. After learning the tongue-thrusting Haka dance moves of the All Blacks, and the finesse of the ladies Poi dance, polishing off a traditional maori dinner and rubbing noses, you will no longer be a guest but a part of their people. You lucky thing.

Day 2 | Rotorua | Goodness gracious, Great (Pacific) Ring of Fire! Mud, Middle Earth and massages are the order of the day in the bubbling, gurgling and sulphur-soaked town of Rotorua. If you’re starting to resemble a muddy prune, flush out the mud rafting over the waterfalls, discover the Disneyland of mountain biking, or jump into the real-life landscapes of Tolkien’s dreams on the Hobbiton Shire escape.

Day 3 | Rotorua to Tongariro National Park | The heat is on as we flex our muscles, hit the footy field and learn the gentleman's game from the future All Blacks at the NZ Sports Academy. Geothermal activity gets turned up to 11 with bubbling mud pools, and if that's not enough, you can jump off a bridge as we pass by the largest lake in New Zealand. Lake Taupo was formed by an explosion that extended the Ice Age, so yeah, it's pretty big. It's also time to meet the dessert that's caused a battle between NZ and Australia since someone whipped an egg white: the pavlova.

Day 4 | Tongariro National Park | Binoculars and a digital camera should have been essentials for the Hobbits as they climbed through Mordor. Good thing you came prepared. With dual cultural and natural heritage status, and often described as the most epic hike in NZ, Tongariro NP is home to two active volcanoes that will hopefully keep a lid on things. The Tongariro Alpine Crossing will quickly top your list of favorites if you don't mind heights and the odd dormant lava chamber (and walks from 20 mins to 8 hours). Hike, raft or mountain bike then hit the spa and warm your feet by the fire in an alpine lodge overlooking Mt Doom.

Day 5 | Tongariro National Park to Wellington | From hiking over lava to readjusting to city life, today we hit the nation's capital, Wellington (no, it's not Auckland!). After you conquer the six floors of Te Papa, you'll probably be ready for a big city nightlife hit. With more bars and restaurants per capita than New York and a well-earned spot as the sporting capital of NZ, you can't go wrong with a craft beer and some local rugby action.

Day 6 | Wellington to Nelson | Ferry across the Cook Strait through Marlborough Sounds and into the arms of the world's best Sav Blanc for a private tasting in a family owned vineyard. Work out how many bottles you can fit in your suitcase without breaking your back. With postcard-perfect vistas and 35,000 hectares under vines she's a slice of heaven, yeah, she's a slice of heaven, yeah.

Day 7 | Nelson | Dense forest, snow capped mountains and acres of pinot noir grapes. Green, white and red… no wonder Nelson has been referred to as the Naples of the southern hemisphere. Throw clay or wield a paintbrush in the creative artist hub. Skydive, kayak or take a hike through the mountains, forests and waters of Abel Tasman National Park. Or go treasure hunting in Nelson's galleries. Round out the day with a traditional Kiwi BBQ dinner catered by yours truly. Not bad, Nelson. Not bad.

Day 8 | Nelson to Christchurch | The dolphins here are happier than hipsters in a cold-pressed juice bar. Make more marine mates and brace yourself for the triple threat of acrobatic sperm whales, orcas and humpbacks on a whale watching tour and melt over the cuteness of fur seals under the falls. Fancy some 'fush and chups'? You're spoilt for choice in Kaikoura where Kai = Food and Koura = Crayfish. Then on to Christchurch, which matched the 2011 shakedown and raised it with new pop-up bars, and a container shopping precinct.

Day 9 | Christchurch to Fox Glacier | Roll across the pastoral patchwork quilt that forms the Canterbury Plains as 50 shades of green melt into snow-topped peaks. Hang out in Hokitika for whitebait fritters and Pounamu (Jade) shopping then cross your fingers for the money shot of NZ's two tallest mountain peaks reflected in Lake Matheson for the #picoftheday. Excited? You should be.

Day 10 | Fox Glacier to Queenstown | Today's your chance to walk on water. Well, frozen glacial water to be precise. For your next miracle, scale a mountain in minutes to get amongst ethereal ice caves and formations. With barely enough time to let your heart rate thaw, we journey back through the mountains past Lake Wanaka and Lake Hawea. Feel your pulse start to quicken as we roll into Queenstown-he who dares wins, so will it be one giant swing or two?

Day 11 | Queenstown | Here's some basic math: Queenstown has over 220 activities-you have two days. No rush. This lakeside city has adrenaline on tap and will match any adventure you had in mind and then throw a Fergburger in there for good measure. Get your fix with bungy, a narrow canyon swing, Shotover Jet, or paragliding, hiking, horse riding and the skyline gondola. If you're bored here, there's something wrong. Need some time out? Head to the Kiwi Birdlife Park, soak in a Japanese onsen, or kick back with a local pinot.

Day 12 | Queenstown | Free day, take two. Jump off more stuff or chill out and let your pulse drop. Your call.

Day 13 | Queenstown to Fiordland | Instagram account meltdown warning! Today is going to chew through your memory cards with the Mirror Lakes and Hollyford Valley as the double layer cake and Milford Sound the icing. Sheer rock faces towering 1,200m above sea level, wildlife and waterfalls combine like an inch-thick chocolate ganache… 100% pure mouth-watering decadence out on the sound. You probably won't see any woolly mammoths, but dolphins and fur seals? You can pretty much bet your snow boots on it. Steeped in Maori myth, this is a history and geology lesson rolled into one, minus the homework.

Day 14 | Fiordland to Lake Ohau | Now we ain't sayin' you're a gold-digger, but back in the heyday of Arrowtown, everyone was. Recharge your batteries with venison burgers and a central Otago pinot noir in Arrowtown then zigzag across the five bridges that span the ever-changing Arrow River. Test your nerves on the suspension bridge then chill out by the crystal clear river waters while you catch your breath. Then cue relaxation and a chance to practice your stone-skimming skills in Lake Ohau.

Day 15 | Lake Ohau to Christchurch | Lap up Lake Pukaki under the shadow of Mt Cook. It's about as Kiwi as 'fush and chups'. Then shift into sheep country, where furry buggers outnumber humans 12:1 and the supermodel scenery once again takes centre stage. It makes sense that today includes the Church of the Good Shepherd, a monument to the faithful sheep dog and a chance to watch the ankle biters in action on a Kiwi farm. Hey now, hey now, don't dream it's over… we finish in Christchurch but where will you go next?